Acid VS Alkaline...the importance of pH balance in the hair

First lets talk about what pH balance is. pH is a medical term that describes the balance of your system and it refers to the condition of metabolic changes. It stands for potential hydrogen. The pH of any solution is the measure of its hydrogen-ion concentration. The higher the pH reading, the more alkaline and oxygen rich the fluid is. The lower the pH reading, the more acidic and oxygen deprived the fluid is. The pH range is from 0 to 14, with 7.0 being neutral. Anything above 7.0 is alkaline, anything below 7.0 is considered acidic. Water is 7.0 on the scale (neutral).
Why is it so important to know how to balance pH? Our hair produces a natural oil called sebum. Sebum maintains the moisture and balance in our hair. The hairs natural pH balance is between 4.5 and 5.5 on the scale. That means the hair is naturally acidic, so the products we use in our hair should also be acidic. To know what products to use in your hair, you have to know the right level of pH for your hair. For example, the pH of hair(4.5 to5.5) is close to 2.9, which is the pH of Apple Cider Vinegar. Rinsing your hair with ACV will help balance the pH of your hair and remove the buildup from products. Dilute it with water to get the right balance (1 part ACV to 2 parts water). Some products such as sulfate shampoo, conditioners, hair colors, permanents and bleaches are strongly alkaline, which can put our tresses in a stressful state as the pH of these products is way off from the pH of hair. Water is the most alkali substance that should be used in the hair. Any other substance higher than 7 should NOT be used on the hair, relaxers included. Products with pH's lower than 4.o and higher than 7.5 can eventually reak havic on the hair.
Your hair consists of three parts. The outermost layer is the cuticle and inside of that is the cortex. The medulla is the central, most internal portion of the hair shaft that contains excess cells and air. When your hair is damaged, the scales on the cuticle stand out and break off. This exposes the cortex which makes your hair feel harder. The cortex is what gives your hair its strength and its elasticity.  By nature, curly hair cuticles tend to remain in an open state, as the spiral pattern of a curl makes it extremely difficult for the cuticles to lie flat. Since these open cuticles are what cause frizzy hair, it is particularly important for curly heads to be aware of the pH levels of the products they use. 
Alkaline products means that the pH level is 7 and above. The cuticle opens when an alkaline substance is added to it. A lot of shampoos are made to be neutral or at times, slightly alkaline. The high pH will allow the shampoo to easily clear off any oils or dirt that have formed on the hair and scalp. Neutral shampoos may be recommended for people who have sensitive scalps. In the same manner, hair conditioner is usually acidic or carries a low pH, because it causes the keratin on the hair strand surface to be flattened out instead of bristly, thus causing hair to be smooth and soft.
Ultimately you want your cuticles to lay down, so staying within the natural balance of the hair would be ideal, which is why you want to gravitate to acidic products. Purchasing pH strips and testing the balance of the products before applying them to your hair is the best way to maintain your pH balance in your hair. Check the bottles on your products, some will tell you if it is pH balanced or not. It may be neccessary to tweak some products to balance them out. For example, you may notice that some shea butters or other butters make your hair look dull. This is because typically, butters have a pH of 6.0, which don't close the cuticles all the way. Using aloe vera juice, which is acidic, with the butter will close the cuticle more, giving it more shine. Another ancient Chinese secret for laying those cuticles down is cool water. When shampooing your hair with warm water, it raises the cuticle. Try rinsing your conditioner with cool water to close the cuticle and seal the product into the hair strands, giving it the moisture it needs.
It is important to understand why some products can strip the hair of its natural moisture and cause the hair to be dry and brittle, and others aid in restoring moisture. Once you start to learn your hair and the proper pH balancing, you will be amazed at how much your hair will thrive and flourish.

To order pH strips visit http://www.luvnaturals.com/

Check out this video from Kim Love

 

Moisture! Moisture! Moisture!

I want to talk about the IMPORTANCE of keeping natural hair moisturized. As a cosmetology student, I can't stress enough to my clients to keep moisture in their hair. With the summer months fast approaching, the heat can play a large roll as a damaging agent for your hair.
Now, when I say the hair needs moisture, I don't mean to slather on piles of hair grease. I am not a big fan of "hair oil" as we all understand it. For me, it's only good for clogging the pores and attracting all the dirt and lint in your path.  The scalp produces it's own oil, but if you feel you need it, then use light oils such as coconut oil, olive oil or almond oil,which dissolve easily into the scalp. Also, Some good examples of  oils that can be used to seal in moisture after a wash are avocado butter, mango butter or Shea butter. Remember that these are oils and will just lock in whatever moisture you already have in your hair. It is advisable to dampen the hair slightly before applying any hair oil to it and use in moderation.
Another excellent means of moisturizing is conditioning the hair. Never shampoo your hair without following with conditioning. Shampooing is the way of pulling oil and other product build up from your hair, while conditioning is how to put moisture back into the hair. I recommend a deep conditioning at least once a month. For my deep conditioner, I use a mixture of Design Essentials Express and Stimulations, put a plastic cap on and sit under a dryer for at least 15min. If you don't want heat in your head, just put the cap on and chill. There are all kinds of deep conditioners out there. Find what works for your hair and make sure it's a moisturizing conditioner.
Now, ya'll hear me out on this next staple in hair moisture....
WATER! Yes, I said water. The best way to keep the hair moisturized between shampoos is water. When looking for moisturizing products for your hair, make sure the first ingredient is good ole H2O.

You may find that the best conditioners are the ones that are marketed to 'wet type' styles (jheri curl or wave nouveau) as they contain mainly water and glycerine. S curl is particularly good.

Moisturizers should then be applied daily or as needed. Only a dime sized amount is required for shoulder length hair. A touch more for longer hair. Always comb the moisturizer through the length of the hair with a wide tooth comb to make sure that every strand gets its share. You can apply a bit more to the ends if desired.

So, while facing all the reasons of what can cause hair damage, don't let dryness be one of them.

LOVE YOUR HAIR!!

Night night, sleep tight...

I want to start off today with a question. How do you prepare your hair at night? Do you wrap it up or do you just go to bed as is and awake with a massive amount of "bed head"?
Well, whether you are natural or not, it is always good to wrap your hair in a silk or satin bonnet or scarf before bed, or if you can't do that get a silk or satin pillowcase.

Tossing and turning on an abrasive cotton pillowcase, pulls the hair strands and causes breakage and tangling. Cotton also absorbs the oils you have in your hair, causing dryness.
Is that all we have to do? I'm glad you asked...The answer is NO.
While it's essential to protect your hair while sleeping, it's also imperative to make sure you do a little maintenance on your hair before calling it a night. For natural or long hair, it's best to put your hair in two or three plaits. It will make for easier combing the next day. As I stated in my previous post, moisturizing is a must, especially your ends. Dry ends lead to breakage, so I recommend a leave-in conditioner on your ends and you can even seal it in with a dab of a light oil, such as jojoba, almond, or shea butter. Now don't get heavy handed while applying or you'll weigh your hair down or make it too greasy.
With all this being said, I hope it motivates you to continuously protect your hair, even while you're sleeping.
LOVE YOUR HAIR!!

Relax, Relate, Release!!!!

I'm sure everyone likes a nice relaxing massage every now and then, whether professional or from a loved one. It not only feels good, but a massage can cure what ails you. They increase circulation in the body, relax and soften injured or overused muscles and releases endorphins (the body's natural pain killer) just to name a few. Did you know that this also holds true for your scalp? Just like the skin, the scalp needs to be pampered and massaged. It should be an important part of your natural hair journey. 
One of the first things I learned in cosmetology school are massage techniques when shampooing a clients hair. You want your client to feel at ease and comfortable during the experience, but they also get benefits in the long run.
When the scalp is tight from stress it hinders hair growth and circulation. Massaging will help relax the scalp and increase flexibility. It helps strengthen the roots of the hair and nourishes the hair shafts, promoting new hair growth and strengthening of the current hair. It helps to spread the natural oils of the hair, increasing hair vibrancy. It also conditions the scalp.The "feel good" portion of the massage helps to release those chemicals in the body that work to lower stress levels. Lower stress levels allow your organs to function more efficiently, boosting your hair follicle's ability to grow. Sounds beneficial huh?!??
Try massaging your scalp at least twice day, first thing in the morning and then right before bed. For about 5 to 10 minutes, maybe even while you are watching TV. You can use a natural oil, which have different properties that are good for your hair, such as Olive Oil, Jojoba oil or Almond oil. Using the pads of your fingers, apply the oil little by little to different parts of your scalp. Then work the oil into your scalp using circular motions. Slow movements are relaxing while vigorous movement helps enhance energy and circulation. You can even warm the oil first by pouring it into a bowl and then placing the bowl into a bowl of hot water.
Healthy hair is the result of a healthy scalp. It also requires an ongoing care routine that starts with nourishment. Whether your hair is thinning, shedding, breaking or none of the above, whatever the case may be, regular massages can help prevent any of these ailments and improve the growth of your hair. Don't wait until you start to experience hair issues, start now so that you can reap the benefits for years to come.

Flinstones kids...10 million strong and growing!!

Do you remember when you were a kid and your mom always laid out your vitamins with your breakfast? I grew up a flinstones kid, I also had long thick hair. Vitamins are an essential part of healthy hair growth.  If you don't take care of the insides, then it's not going to show on the outside, hair included...simple geography. The lack of vitamins can actually slow down your hair growth and can be the cause of thinning. Here are a list of vitamins good for healthy hair:

1.      Vitamin A – This vitamin is an antioxidant that helps produce healthy sebum in the scalp. Food sources: Fish liver oil, meat, milk, cheese, eggs, spinach, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, apricots and peaches.   Daily dosage should be 5,000 IU. More than 25,000 IU is toxic and can cause hair loss and other serious health problems.

2.      Vitamin C – It is an antioxidant that helps maintain skin & hair health. It aids in improving scalp circulation. It is important to maintain capillaries that carry blood to the follicles. Food sources: Citrus fruits, strawberries, kiwi, cantaloupe, pineapple, tomatoes, green peppers, potatoes and dark green vegetables. Daily Dose: 60 mg.

3.      Vitamin E – This vitamin is an antioxidant that enhances scalp circulation. Since hair health is tied to the immune health, vitamin E is believed to stimulate hair growth by enhancing the immune function. Food sources: Cold-pressed vegetable oils, wheat germ oil, soybeans, raw seeds and nuts, dried beans, and leafy green vegetables. Daily dose: Up to 400 IU. Intake of this vitamin can raise blood pressure and reduce blood clotting.  Those under high blood pressure medication would need clearance from their doctors.

4.      Biotin – This vitamin produces keratin and works as an anti aging agent that prevents hair loss and hair graying.  Food sources: Brewer's yeast, whole grains, egg yolks, liver, rice, green peas, lentils, oats, soybeans, sunflower seeds,walnuts and milk. Daily dose: 150-300 mcg.

5.      Inositol – This vitamin keeps hair follicles healthy at the cellular level. Food sources: Whole grains, brewer's yeast, liver and citrus fruits. Daily Dose: Up to 600 mg.

6.      Niacin (Vitamin B3) – This vitamin allows scalp blood circulation. Food sources: Brewer's yeast, wheat germ, fish, chicken, turkey and meat. Daily dose: 15 mg.

7.      Pantothenic Acid (Vitamin B5) - This prevents graying and hair loss. Food sources: Whole grain cereals, brewer's yeast, organ meats and egg yolks. Daily dose: 4-7 mg.

8.      Vitamin B6 – It prevents hair loss and helps create melanin that gives hair its color. Food sources: Brewer's yeast, liver, whole grain cereals, vegetables, organ meats and egg yolk. Daily dose: 1.6 mg. High dosage of this vitamin can cause numbness in hands and feet.

9.      Vitamin B12 - It prevents hair loss. Food sources: Chicken, fish, eggs and milk. Daily dose: 2 mg.

Finding a good multivitamin is essential in maintaining healthy hair and over all health. How do I know what good vitamin to take? I'm glad you asked....Here is information I found to be helpful.

                 5 TIPS FOR CHOOSING A SUPPLEMENT THAT'S RIGHT FOR YOU!

• Does the supplement provide sufficient quantities of each vitamin? For example - 50mg. to 100mg. of the B vitamins, 500mg. of vitamin C, 1000mg. of calcium. Remember, 100mg. of a B vitamin is needed to provide your body with about 10mg. of actual, useable nutrition. This is usually plenty. Use the 10% rule to know exactly what you're getting. The one or two per day supplements only start with about 3mg. or less of the B vitamins. 10% of this amount is like taking nothing at all.
• Look for the USP (United States Pharmacopoeia) or BP (British Pharmacopoeia) designation on the label. This means that the vitamin isolates are the highest quality you can buy, and are the most easily dissolved in the digestion process. Each vitamin that is USP or BP will have those initials next to that vitamin.
• Look for "chelate" or "chelated" in relation to the minerals. This means the minerals are attached to protein before they are added to the supplement. This increases absorption both in the bloodstream and cells by an amazing 400% to 800%.
• Look for enzymes in the formulation. These are, among other things, essential for attaching protein molecules to the vitamins in digestion. Cooking food destroys these enzymes.
• Look for a supplement that has a "food base". A food base is concentrated plant material to which the vitamins and minerals are added. These will contain the enzymes and nutrients to greatly boost the absorption and utilization of the vitamins and minerals. This makes a GREAT supplement package. But it does make them more bulky. Expect larger tablets, and more quantity needed per day.

So, listen to your body! What's right for others may not be right for you. You definitely should FEEL a measurable difference in your health and energy within a few days with the right supplement. If you don't, try a different vitamin supplement.

10.   Essential fatty acids (flaxseed oil, primrose oil, and salmon oil) - improves hair texture. Prevents dry, brittle hair.

11.  Zinc -  Stimulates hair growth by enhancing immune function. Dosage: 50-100 mg daily. 

The Heat is On!!! Thermal styling

Putting heat in your natural hair has got to be one of the most controversial topics in most of the hair blogs out there. Should you or shouldn't you?!?! Many naturals frown on the act of even thinking about doing a blow out or flat iron, but I say, as long as one takes extra precautions (deep conditioner, gentle manipulation, heat protection product, etc.) before, during, and after straightening, I don't see a problem with it, periodically. I mean we pride ourselves in having the versatility of curly hair so why not explore all options?? I'm just saying.....
Some naturals use heat often, while others use it a couple of times a year for hair maintenance like trims and length check,  but and this is a BIG BUT, I do know using heat on natural hair is a sure way of losing your natural curl, especially after a prolonged period of time.
When I first went natural, I put heat in my hair maybe once a year for a trim and to see my length. Once I started cosmetology school, I was putting heat in my hair more frequently and subsequently damaged my hair. I ended up having straight strands of hair even after shampooing and air drying. I've heard some naturals say that there curl pattern is looser after putting heat on it or that their texture is changing. I don't mean to burst your bubble, but all that is happening is heat damage to your hair. When using heat, it pulls the moisture out of your hair and damages the cuticle in the process. Which is why using a heat protectant is important. So instead of cooking your hair, you cook the product, therefore protecting your hair.
Once you experience heat damage, there is no repairing it. Even though you may see a commercial for a product that claims to "repair" damaged hair, it's only putting a band aid on it. Once you shampoo the product out, your hair is still damaged. Cutting your hair will be the only way to get rid of it.
In the end, the question of whether or not to put heat in your hair is totally up to you. If you are totally in love with your curly texture, then heat is not for you. On the hand, if you have natural hair, but want the effects of having a relaxer, then heat on baby! Just remember to use your moisturizers and protectors.

Not so Relaxed...

So you've made the conscious decision to go natural, now what??
It's time to transition. What does transition mean? Transitioning is when you decide to no longer alter your new growth with relaxers or chemicals, you will have to transition from relaxed or straight hair to natural. For some the whole idea of transitioning isn't easy, but for others the decision was made for them when relaxers caused there hair to shed and fall out. The transitioning period is probably the most frustrating part of being natural. I've seen women have doubts or lose patience and say they were going back to the "creamy crack". They find that as their natural hair is growing, they can't treat their hair as if they still have a relaxer. So, their whole mind set has to change. Also, having to deal with two different textures during the transition can be enough to make you relapse. 
Now that you're in the transitioning period, how long does it last?
That's totally up to you. I transitioned for maybe 4 or 5 months and got all my relaxer cut out. Doing this is called The Big Chop or BC in the natural hair world. This is ultimately the easiest way to go instead of fighting with the two different textures. Now depending on how much new growth you have a BC could result in either shaving your head or sporting a twa (teeny weeny afro).
The other way to go is to gradually grow the relaxer out and cut a little at a time. This method requires a little bit more work than the BC, but some women don't want to take such a big step. In this case you can choose protective hair styles such as weaves, wigs or braids. If you choose to go this route, make sure you are cutting the relaxer a little at a time, because having two different textures will do more harm than good. You've got the new hair and the relaxed hair fighting against each and the line where they meet is the weakest part of your hair, which is where it will break. However, it is possible to minimize breakage by learning proper combing techniques and with product. I know women who have transitioned for a whole year with great results.
Transitioning doesn't have to be hard. All you need is a little patience and persistence. I know you may go through doubts, frustration and even fear, but hang in there. You'll soon experience excitement once you see those beautiful  coils and curls.  

Grow your hair NATURALLY

It's very easy to fall into the trap of advertisements for products that promise to increase the rate of your hair growth, but sometimes these products aren't the best route to take. Protein, which is essentially what hair is made of, is a natural vitamin found not only in supplements but also in the food we consume.
So, if you have a diet that is low in protein then this can create irregular hair growth or even stunt growth all together. That being said, when you choose to eat a high in protein diet, then your hair will both grow at a faster rate and just be healthier overall.
Some foods to consider when boosting up your protein intake are lean meats, fish, poultry, dairy products, soy, nuts and grains. If you eat just one of these a day, you can help build your protein levels and therefore promoting the growth of your hair.
You'll find there are many protein hair treatments products on the market, which claim to boost your hair growth and overall appearance. While these products do have their advantages, it's still best to to start with natural protein through your diet and combine it with the products.
With your hair being protein based, IT'S ONLY NATURAL that through putting the proper amounts in your diet and through supplement intake, it just may be all you need to see a dramatic increase in hair growth.

FOOD For Thought

Before you go running to your nearest beauty supply store for expensive or even "cheap" hair care products, take a step back and look in your kitchen. Hey, if it's good enough to go in the body, then it's good enough to go on the body, right?! Here are a few foods that you should have right in your kitchen that will work wonders on your hair.

Eggs: Packed full of protein and great for strengthening and adding shine to the hair. You can either whip up an egg and add it to your shampoo or just whip up one or two eggs and put it directly on your dry hair. Cover with a towel or plastic cap, let it sit for 15 minutes then wash it out. Be careful not to rinse the egg out with really hot water or it will cook the egg, giving all new meaning to egg head...

Honey: Chocked full of vitamins, honey is an excellent hair moisturizer. Try mixing equal parts honey and olive oil. Rub in your hair, put on a plastic cap and let it sit for 30 minutes before shampooing your hair.

Olive Oil: As I said with the honey, olive oil is also good for conditioning the hair. It's improves the strength and elasticity of the hair. Warm some olive oil in the microwave, about 20 seconds, and massage into your damp hair and scalp. Put a plastic cap on your head for 30 minutes and shampoo and condition as normal.

Apple Cider Vinegar: It has a tart smell, but it will go away as the hair dries. Once again packed full of nutrients apple cider vinegar helps to balance the pH of your hair and scalp and helps in removing product buildup. Mix 1 tablespoon of ACV with a cup of warm water and pour it onto the hair after shampooing. You can either rinse it out or leave the vinegar rinse on your hair for extra conditioning. As I said the smell will go away once your hair dries.  

Mayonnaise: This is probably the most popular "home remedy" hair treatment. It restores moisture and shine to dead hair. It contains eggs, oil and vinegar which are all excellent for you hair. Make sure you use real mayo and not salad dressing...it's not the same thing. Apply to every strand of hair, cover with a plastic cap and relax for about an hour. Wash and condition as normal.
Now these are just a select few of many other foods you can use to treat your hair. Plain yogurt, molasses, and cornstarch are some others. You can also mix and match them to make a good hair cocktail. Experiment and see what works best for your hair.

TWIST and shout!

Twists are a versatile and popular way of maintaining your natual coils. They are relatively simple to maintain and are a good way to let you hair rest from all the wear and tear of everyday styling. As always, be sure to keep hair moisturized and wrap it up at night.  Here are a few styles that I have done. 
 




Two strand twists can be either worn down or in an updo style. You can also gently unravel them from the ends up for a twist out style.





Flat twists updos are both simple and stylish




Kinky twists are the longest lasting twists style

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KNOT today!

One thing newbies to the natural hair world complain about is being able to detangle their hair without pulling their brains out. It's not the traumatic experience people make it out to be.
Remember that you are not relaxed anymore, so the ability to comb your hair from root to ends is now null and void. You can forget about using a fine tooth comb of any kind, you'll be asking for trouble.
With the hair being in a natural state, knots will become apart of the equation of curly hair growth. With that being said, you may need to change your daily regimen.
Shampoos can sometimes do more harm than good when shampooing the hair. It's capable of creating more knots when you emulsify it through your hair. So try just shampooing the scalp and then pulling the shampoo through your hair.
When detangling natural hair, gently start at the ends using a wide tooth comb and your fingers. Make sure the hair is wet and with conditioner. It makes it easier for the comb to glide through the hair and use your fingers to gently pull the hair apart.
When pulling the hair into a style, it prevents friction and knot creation. Wearing the hair up means the hair is in a fixed state and not forming knots with all the other spiral strands. If you like to wear your hair out, be sure to keep the hair properly moisturized. It will make it easier to finger comb out loose  knots before they form into tight ones.  
Lastly, remember to wrap up your hair at night. Hair that's free during the night is going to be knotted and tangled by morning.

It's not true...hair myths

There are a lot of misconceptions about hair, especially natural hair. Let's see if I can clear some of these up.

1. Natural hair is very strong. This couldn't be more false. Natural hair may look rough and tough, but it is actually very fragile and the curlier the hair, the weaker it is. Each curl and bend serves as a breaking point because the shafts are weak. People assume that natural hair is thick, when most likely the strands are fine and wiry. This being said, natural hair needs to be cared for gently.
2. There's no way I can go natural, I won't be able to get a comb through it. Once you go natural, you have to change your entire mind set. You can't treat your hair as if you still have a relaxer. One thing you shouldn't do is comb your hair dry. Only wet and with conditioner in it, which serves as an excellent detangler. Don't fight with your hair, embrace your natural texture and work with it.
3. Most black women can't grow long hair. Really?? Why would we get exempt from the norm? For all relaxed women, how often do you get your roots touched up? About every 6 to 8 weeks, right? That's because you have new growth. No, it's not the relaxer that causes your hair to grow. ALL hair grows approximately a 1/2 inch per month, depending on the individual. With natural hair, you have to consider the shrinkage factor, looks can be deceiving. Also, remember the fragility of natural hair and it being prone to breakage and with all the blow drying, flat ironing/curling, hair color and chemicals, the hair is bound to suffer and break making it seem as if the hair isn't growing.
4. Products are made for either black hair or white hair. You would think that wouldn't you? Guess what, shampoo is shampoo and conditioner is conditioner. Just because there are products that focus on one ethnicity more than the other doesn't mean it's "made" just for them. Truth is the focus is all about the Benjamins baby! The companies just want your money and they know who is going to buy it. You would be surprised of the number of "black" hair product companies owned by white folks.
5. Trimming your hair will make it grow. Well, trimming your hair is definitely a must in hair maintenance, but your hair is going to grow whether you trim it or not. Regular hair trims is a way of getting rid of split ends or preventing them from splitting, which causes the hair to break. In doing this you will be able to see better hair growth.