Why is it so important to know how to balance pH? Our hair produces a natural oil called sebum. Sebum maintains the moisture and balance in our hair. The hairs natural pH balance is between 4.5 and 5.5 on the scale. That means the hair is naturally acidic, so the products we use in our hair should also be acidic. To know what products to use in your hair, you have to know the right level of pH for your hair. For example, the pH of hair(4.5 to5.5) is close to 2.9, which is the pH of Apple Cider Vinegar. Rinsing your hair with ACV will help balance the pH of your hair and remove the buildup from products. Dilute it with water to get the right balance (1 part ACV to 2 parts water). Some products such as sulfate shampoo, conditioners, hair colors, permanents and bleaches are strongly alkaline, which can put our tresses in a stressful state as the pH of these products is way off from the pH of hair. Water is the most alkali substance that should be used in the hair. Any other substance higher than 7 should NOT be used on the hair, relaxers included. Products with pH's lower than 4.o and higher than 7.5 can eventually reak havic on the hair.
Your hair consists of three parts. The outermost layer is the cuticle and inside of that is the cortex. The medulla is the central, most internal portion of the hair shaft that contains excess cells and air. When your hair is damaged, the scales on the cuticle stand out and break off. This exposes the cortex which makes your hair feel harder. The cortex is what gives your hair its strength and its elasticity. By nature, curly hair cuticles tend to remain in an open state, as the spiral pattern of a curl makes it extremely difficult for the cuticles to lie flat. Since these open cuticles are what cause frizzy hair, it is particularly important for curly heads to be aware of the pH levels of the products they use.
Alkaline products means that the pH level is 7 and above. The cuticle opens when an alkaline substance is added to it. A lot of shampoos are made to be neutral or at times, slightly alkaline. The high pH will allow the shampoo to easily clear off any oils or dirt that have formed on the hair and scalp. Neutral shampoos may be recommended for people who have sensitive scalps. In the same manner, hair conditioner is usually acidic or carries a low pH, because it causes the keratin on the hair strand surface to be flattened out instead of bristly, thus causing hair to be smooth and soft.
Ultimately you want your cuticles to lay down, so staying within the natural balance of the hair would be ideal, which is why you want to gravitate to acidic products. Purchasing pH strips and testing the balance of the products before applying them to your hair is the best way to maintain your pH balance in your hair. Check the bottles on your products, some will tell you if it is pH balanced or not. It may be neccessary to tweak some products to balance them out. For example, you may notice that some shea butters or other butters make your hair look dull. This is because typically, butters have a pH of 6.0, which don't close the cuticles all the way. Using aloe vera juice, which is acidic, with the butter will close the cuticle more, giving it more shine. Another ancient Chinese secret for laying those cuticles down is cool water. When shampooing your hair with warm water, it raises the cuticle. Try rinsing your conditioner with cool water to close the cuticle and seal the product into the hair strands, giving it the moisture it needs.
It is important to understand why some products can strip the hair of its natural moisture and cause the hair to be dry and brittle, and others aid in restoring moisture. Once you start to learn your hair and the proper pH balancing, you will be amazed at how much your hair will thrive and flourish.
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