Dandruff VS Dry Scalp

This post may be a little lengthy, but I really want people to understand that there is a difference between dandruff and dry scalp. The majority of my clients want to label the flakes in there hair as dandruff, but 9 times out of 10 it's just a bad case of dry scalp or extreme product buildup. That being said, I'm going to try to explain the vast difference between the two.
Dandruff is a bacteria and is actually contagious if a person with it shares there combs, brushes or hats with anyone else. It is a mixture of sebum (natural oil that comes from the hair shaft), sweat, bacteria and scalp tissue. It is always yellow or orange colored because of the sebum and sweat.
Dry scalp is an over shedding of dead and dehydrated skin cells of the scalp caused by itching, scratching, over combing, and due to severe dehydration of the sebaceous glands. This shedding will be white in color. The depictions you see in dandruff commercials are all false. The white flakes they portray would be dry scalp, not dandruff. Dry scalp also can be a result of excessive product buildup on the hair and scalp. You can tell if you have such by taking the edge of a comb or your fingernail and gliding it down a strand of hair. If you come up with a powdery white substance, then it's probably product buildup.

Ok, so now that you know what they are, let's discuss what causes them.
What causes Dandruff?
1. Overactive sebaceous glands 
This can be a genetic thing, and in severe cases a dermatologist may be needed. You would need to avoid products that leave a waxy buildup in the hair, hair grease, balms and oily styling products. You would need to shampoo your hair every other day, to keep it free from bacteria. Shampoos with tea tree in it is a great remedy, you may have to get a prescription from the dermatologist or just go to a salon. Be very cautious when using dandruff shampoo. Make sure you don't use it too long as they are a powerful product used to help dry up the scalp. You would NEVER use dandruff shampoo on dry scalp, it would only be adding fuel to the fire.
2. Bad hygiene
That's right folks, not shampooing your hair regularly will make you susceptible to dandruff. If bacteria that is sitting on the scalp is there too long, it will mix with the sebum and cause dandruff. Naturals should shampoo their hair no less than once a week. If wearing braids or a style that can't get wet, then cleanse your scalp with an astringent, like witch hazel.
3. Hair grease, oil balms, Vaseline
I've said it before, no hair will benefit from using petroleum products. These products will not stop scalp tissue from drying out. It's just a highway to dandruffville, especially if the person using it doesn't shampoo on a regular basis. Petroleum products make a water proof and air proof barrier on the scalp. Even though the scalp will still produce sebum and the scalp will still sweat, it will become infected with dandruff because air can't get to the scalp, causing it to stay glued to the scalp.
4. Scratching and digging at the scalp
Do not scrape, dig or claw at the scalp. Do not use a comb to scratch dry patches from your scalp. It can let bacteria in and not just dandruff bacteria, but even worse bacteria like staff. It also causes more aggravation of dry scalp and spread dandruff.
5. Sharing combs and any objects that sit on the head
The same as head lice, dandruff is contagious. Do not share combs with anyone, or other objects that come in contact with the scalp or hair.

What causes dry scalp?
1. A low productivity of sebum
This could be genetic. If you have psoriasis then you may have low sebum productivity, but patches may turn red and scaly. Dry scalp should be white in color as that is the color of dead skin cells. If you think you may have a genetic deficiency consult a dermatologist, but for dry scalp, in most instances keeping the hair and scalp moist will suffice.
2. Using bad shampoos and conditioners or products that you are allergic to
Most people do not realize that a lot of products used have fillers in them. These fillers range from alcohol to wax. The alcohol in some shampoos and conditioners will dehydrate the hair leaving it feeling dry, brittle and without shine. If you are using these products with dry scalp, then you need to change products, even if the product worked for you once upon a time. Read your labels and learn what works best for you. Also, many people will be allergic to certain products causing irritations like itching, burning and dry scalp. If this is the case, stop using the product. Plain and simple.
3. Not using conditioner
If you do not condition your hair after shampooing, shame on you! Shampoo is drying, even professional ones. It is designed to strip oils from your hair.  You need to condition your hair to put the moisture back into your hair and scalp. It also makes sure the cuticle layers of the hair you opened when you were shampooing get closed. It brings the luster and color back to your hair.

I really hope this gives a better insight on the differences between dry scalp and dandruff. Make sure you know the difference before you run out to the drug store for that bottle of Head and Shoulders. It may just be a wasted trip and a waste of money..... LOVE YOUR HAIR!!

What Is Hair Porosity???

As long as you read this blog, you will continue to read how important it is to get and keep moisture into your hair, but what if your hair doesn't have the ability to retain moisture? Well, let's just take a minute to discuss this. In technical terms, the hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture is called porosity. It's important for you to know your hair's porosity level to determine the best products and maintenance for your hair.

Your level of porosity is in complete relation to the condition of your cuticle layer. Either your cuticle layers  could be very open, allowing for moisture to enter the shaft quickly or the cuticle layers could be sealed shut and very resistant to moisture. 

There are three levels of porosity: High, Low and Normal

 



High Porosity

High porosity is considered overly porous and is the result of over processing, heat damage, chlorine/hard water/mineral saturation, sun damage or the use of other harsh ingredients. Overly porous hair is dry, fragile,brittle and very prone to frizziness. It has an open cuticle that both absorb and release moisture easily. Although overly porous hair absorbs product quickly, it is often dry as the open cuticle does not allow for product retention within the hair shaft. It is best to use a less alkaline solutions with a low pH that help to close the cuticles.

Porosity issues stemming from damage can not be corrected. Only time will heal damaged hair. You can, however, create a "temporary" fix until the damaged part is grown out. Protein treatments fill in any holes within the cortex (inner layer of the hair) and also helps to fill in the gaps exposed by a raised cuticle.

 Note also if you have overly porous hair and you use hair color, while it will process quickly, the color will also fade quickly...it's that whole open cuticle thing, it won't hold on to anything.

  

Low Porosity

Low porosity, being the polar opposite of high is very resistant. It's cuticle is too compact and doesn't permit  moisture to enter or leave the hair shaft. Hair with low porosity is way more difficult to process and has a tendency to repel product rather than absorb it. You would need to use a more alkaline solution to raise the cuticle. Corse hair is more prone to low porosity. Try using lighter hair products with humectants, and utilize heat. It will help lift those cuticles.Wash and condition your hair with warm water, and deep condition under a hooded dryer (or hold a hair dryer over your head).

 

Normal Porosity

 Normal porosity or average the cuticle is still compact and inhibits moisture from leaving or entering the hair shaft, but it also will readily absorb and retain product properly.

There are a couple of ways you can check your hair's porosity:

On dry hair, take a strand of several hairs from four different areas of the head (front hairline, temple, crown and nape). Slide the thumb and index finger of your other hand down each hair strand from end to scalp. If it is smooth, you have normal porosity. If your fingers move very fast up the hair strand and it feels exceptionally slick, dense and hard, you have low porosity. If your fingers "catch" going up the strand, feel like they are ruffling up the hair strand, or if the hair strand breaks, your hair is overly porous.

Also, you can take several strands of your hair and drop them into a bowl of water. Let them sit for several minutes. If the hair is floating in the water, then you have low porosity. If the hair sinks, then you have high porosity.

Continuing to get to know your hair will make it easier to determine just what is best for your regimen and maintenance. LOVE YOUR HAIR!!!