Product of the month...December

Since I just did a post on flat ironing the hair, I figured why not do a review on a good serum.
 This will be my last post for the year of 2011. I pray that you all have a very prosperous New Year!!
This month's product is one I haven't tried, but will be purchasing, most likely today.

Urban Therapy Twisted Sista Different Strokes Serum

Urban Therapy Twisted Sista Different Strokes Serum is good anti frizz product to use when you want to flat iron your hair. It's especially good to use in the summertime when there is plenty of moisture in the air. 

Here is what the product advertises:

• Instantly eliminates frizz
• Give dazzling curls
• Smooths and seals and helps repair split ends
• Contains UV filter
• For both curly and straight hair styles
• Tested in London salons

Apply serum into palms of hands and smooth through wet hair to defrizz. Style as usual. For instant shine, smooth a small amount over dry hair.
The price is $4.49 and can be found at Walgreens, Rite-Aid, Target and etc or you can go to twistedsista.com.
Ingredients: Cyclopentasiloxane , Dimethicone , Cyclohexasiloxane , Isopropyl Myristate , Fragrance , Benzophenone-3 , Tocopheryl Acetate , Phenyl Trimethicone , Benzyl Salicylate , Eugenol , Hexyl Cinnamal , Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde , Limonene


Themakeupdivas.com says, "For added anti-frizz protection and styling, try the Different Strokes Serum – like magic, it eliminates frizz and adds shine to define curls and keep straight hair touchable and smooth with a boost of antioxidant support."

juicymagonline.com calls it a "Miracle Worker". They say it's a product that will have your hair able to withstand any and all weather-related issues. This lightweight serum is the perfect consistency for those with fine to medium hair and can be used on wet or dry hair for defined glossy curls, or sleek straight looks. This power-packed serum also includes a UV filter which protects hair from the destructive effects of the sun's rays.
For maximum results use after shampooing and conditioning hair. Pump a dime-size amount of product into the palm and rub between you hands. Trust us, a little bit of product goes a long way. Evenly distribute the serum from root to tip being careful not to slather too much serum on the roots as this will weigh hair down. Let air dry for gorgeous curls and waves or blow-dry for a smooth straight style.

Flat Ironing Tips

Are you flat ironing your hair with sometimey results? Not getting it as "straight" as you would like? Here are some tips that may be just what you need to get what you are looking for.

1. Make sure hair is conditioned well. If your hair isn't conditioned and moisturized well, then don't even think about putting any heat in your hair. Using just a heat protectant on unconditioned hair will not do the trick. Applying heat to dry, brittle hair is just asking for breakage. Only flat iron your hair if you condition it regularly.
2. Never flat iron dirty hair. It's best to flat iron your hair as soon as you finish freshly shampooing and conditioning your hair. If you apply heat to hair that has a bunch of dirt or product in it, then you are just baking that stuff into your hair. If you need a touch up in the middle of the week, use very little heat, once...not every day.
3. Use some sort of smoothing serum. After you have shampooed and conditioned, before blow drying apply a smoothing serum to your hair. This is especially good for straightening natural hair. If there is a lot of moisture in the air, try to find a humidity-resistant formula. Design Essentials Silk Essentials is my favorite.
4. Use a heat protectant. Once your hair is COMPLETELY dry, use a heat protectant on each section of the hair before you flat iron. Although a heat protectant helps, even the best ones out there will not hold up against heat that is too high.
5. Don't use oil before you iron. You may want to put a natural oil on your hair AFTER you flat iron  for a little added weight, if your hair is limp and fine then you won't need it, but using oil before you flat iron will give you too much weight and you won't achieve the bouncy look you are after.
6. Do not put heat on wet hair. For the best results, make sure your hair is totally dry before putting a flat iron to it. Either blow dry your hair in its entirety or if you don't want to put excessive amounts of heat in your hair let your hair air dry until it's about 80% dry then blow dry the rest of the way. If your hair isn't completely dry before flat ironing, it will just frizz up.
7. Take your time. Slow and steady wins the race. Don't flat iron your hair if you are in a hurry. Using slow and controlled movements will give you the best results, but don't linger in one place too long. Get as close to the roots as you can and pull the iron down in one smooth motion. If you  hurry through it, you may have to go over the section again...and again...and again. Don't forget, the less heat the better.
8. Adjust your heat settings as needed. Naturals will be surprised to find that they have two or three different textures in their hair, it's not uncommon. In my case, the crown of my head is a lot curlier and requires higher heat than my nape area, which has a very loose curl. So, just because your flat iron can heat up to 450 degrees doesn't mean you  have to use that much heat on every area of your head. That's a sure fire way of permanently straightening or damaging your natural curls.
9. Don't iron big sections of hair. Big, chunky sections of hair won't straighten to your liking. Try not to press wider or thicker than 1 inch at a time.
10. Wrap your hair at night. Now that you have done all that hard work straightening your hair, why ruin it by no nighttime maintenance!!? If you wrap your hair at night and cover it with a silk or satin scarf, then by morning you won't need to do much of anything besides taking it down and combing through it. You will already have a slight curve and volume...no more heat should be required.

Simple as 1..2..3 or maybe 10!!! LOL!! LOVE YOUR HAIR!!

 

Fix up that Fro!! Accessorizing

Making the decision to go natural gives you a certain  je ne saia quoi, so to speak. One way to keep that certain something popping is to experiment with different accessories for your hair. Accessories can be as simple as you prefer or they can be bold, making a major statement. I, myself, rely on accessorizing when I'm having a "I don't care" hair day. I have gotten the question, "I'm bored with my hair, what can I do with it?" Well, if you're tired of the same old twists, twist outs, braids or frohawks, then rock some stunning accessories.

Scarves: My favorite way of making my "bad" hair look good.  It is very versatile. You can wear it as a head band or cover the entire head. You can tie them any way you like, either with the knot behind your head or in front. Be creative and experiment. You can't go wrong with scarves.

 

Flowers: Another great way to spruce up your style is with flowers. I usually add it over my ear, but the sky is the limit. Put them any where you choose. Have them as big or as small as you want. Heck, put more than one in at a time.

Headbands: For the most part, headbands are usually used to hold the hair away from the face, but why not snazz it up and use it as a focal point of your hairstyle.



Clips, banana clips, barrettes, hair sticks, etc.: Excellent ways to pin your hair up in a stylish way. I have become very fond of using banana clips to pin my hair when they are two strand twisted. It's also a fashionable way of protecting the ends of your hair by tucking them into your style and pinning them up. 

 

Beanies: So, now that it's getting cold outside, you'll want to cover that head with some sort of hat. Beanies are a great way of protecting the hair from the elements and once again hiding "I don't care" hair. I'm quick to toss a beanie on my two week old twists when I don't have time to take them down. 

  

So, have fun fixing your natural hair up with different accessories. You may even do something "dangerous" and step outside your box. Check out some of the pictures for different ideas! LOVE YOUR HAIR!!!!



Product of the month...November

I know I'm a day late on posting November's product, but better late than never I always say. So, although today is December 1st (where did this year go???), we are going to pretend that it's November 30th, Cool?! LOL!!
Anywho...This month I'd like to feature a product that I've used regularly and have seen others use as well with good results.



Cantu Shea Butter leave in conditioning repair cream

 Cantu Shea Butter leave in conditioning repair cream is a very inexpensive way to keep the hair moisturized on a daily basis. I used it a lot when I was transitioning, not so much any more, but I would still recommend it to anyone looking for a good detangler with great slippage and is a leave in.  Here is what the product advertises:
This product is an intensive deep penetrating leave in cream conditioning treatment that is made with pure Shea butter and other natural oils to stop and mend breakage, repair split ends, and add manageability and shine with every application. When used daily, this cream helps promote strong, long, healthy hair. Formulated for severely damaged, dry or coarse hair.

• Reduces frizz
• Protects hair from heat damage
• Hydrates and moisturizes

Daily styling - Apply to towel dried hair. Work a generous amount of product into hair beginning at the roots to the tips. Comb through for even distribution. Do not rinse. Apply more to longer hair at the ends or problem areas. Leave in treatment - Apply as directed for "daily styling" just after shampooing. Re-apply and cover with a plastic cap overnight for maximum absorption and intensive conditioning. Frizz free hair - Apply daily to split ends or damaged areas. Comb through and let dry naturally.

The price is around $5 and can be found anywhere, Walmart, Target, Walgreens and etc.
Ingredients Water , Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) , Glycine Soja Oil (Soybean) , Propylene Glycol , Polyquaternium-37 , Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate , Dicaprate , PPG-1 Trideceth-6 , Cetyl Alcohol , Glycerin , Stearalkonium Chloride , Trimethylsilylamodimethicone , Panthenol , PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether , Lanolin Oil , Cinnamidopropyl Trimonium Chloride , Hydrolyzed Collagen , Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride , Acrylamide Copolymer , Hydrolyzed Soy Protein , Benzophenone-3 , BHA , BHT , Zea Mays Oil (Corn) , Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate , DMDM Hydantoin , Phenoxyethanol , Fragrance

Here are some reviews from Amazon.com
5.0 out of 5 stars Excellent product!!!

By 

MSDYMPLS (IL)

This is the best product I have ever used as far as leave in conditioner. It leaves the hair soft and shiny. My hair is all natural and it leaves my curls and coils very moisturized. I will always have this product in my hair regimen!!!! Excellent!!!!

5.0 out of 5 stars Great for naturals

By 

Naptivia (Riviera Beach, FL USA)

This products didn't do a lot when my hair was permed, it felt greasy one minute and dry the next. But after going 100% natural it works wonders. This is definitely a keeper. I would also recommend only using it with natural oils...coconut, jojoba, olive, etc. for best results.

5.0 out of 5 stars Great for a overnight conditioning treatment

By 

maigha Phillips

I use this as a overnight treatment mixed with an egg and some coconut oil. When I wake up in the morning and rinse it out my 4a/b hair is full of life.

5.0 out of 5 stars Perfect for Braid Outs!

By 

Sydney Brown "S. Brown" (Granada Hills, CA, USA)

(I did not buy this from Amazon, I bought it from my local beauty supply store) I have been using this as a moisturizer while experimenting with doing braid outs on my naturally curly/African American hair (this is my second week). This stuff is awesome! It feels thin but it truly moisturizes. I have used it on both wet and dry hair and I love how my hair feels in the morning when I take the braids out. I always seal my hair after using this with organic coconut oil and I never have any flakes or residue from mixing the two products together. I highly recommend this product, truly does what it says it will.



 

Dandruff VS Dry Scalp

This post may be a little lengthy, but I really want people to understand that there is a difference between dandruff and dry scalp. The majority of my clients want to label the flakes in there hair as dandruff, but 9 times out of 10 it's just a bad case of dry scalp or extreme product buildup. That being said, I'm going to try to explain the vast difference between the two.
Dandruff is a bacteria and is actually contagious if a person with it shares there combs, brushes or hats with anyone else. It is a mixture of sebum (natural oil that comes from the hair shaft), sweat, bacteria and scalp tissue. It is always yellow or orange colored because of the sebum and sweat.
Dry scalp is an over shedding of dead and dehydrated skin cells of the scalp caused by itching, scratching, over combing, and due to severe dehydration of the sebaceous glands. This shedding will be white in color. The depictions you see in dandruff commercials are all false. The white flakes they portray would be dry scalp, not dandruff. Dry scalp also can be a result of excessive product buildup on the hair and scalp. You can tell if you have such by taking the edge of a comb or your fingernail and gliding it down a strand of hair. If you come up with a powdery white substance, then it's probably product buildup.

Ok, so now that you know what they are, let's discuss what causes them.
What causes Dandruff?
1. Overactive sebaceous glands 
This can be a genetic thing, and in severe cases a dermatologist may be needed. You would need to avoid products that leave a waxy buildup in the hair, hair grease, balms and oily styling products. You would need to shampoo your hair every other day, to keep it free from bacteria. Shampoos with tea tree in it is a great remedy, you may have to get a prescription from the dermatologist or just go to a salon. Be very cautious when using dandruff shampoo. Make sure you don't use it too long as they are a powerful product used to help dry up the scalp. You would NEVER use dandruff shampoo on dry scalp, it would only be adding fuel to the fire.
2. Bad hygiene
That's right folks, not shampooing your hair regularly will make you susceptible to dandruff. If bacteria that is sitting on the scalp is there too long, it will mix with the sebum and cause dandruff. Naturals should shampoo their hair no less than once a week. If wearing braids or a style that can't get wet, then cleanse your scalp with an astringent, like witch hazel.
3. Hair grease, oil balms, Vaseline
I've said it before, no hair will benefit from using petroleum products. These products will not stop scalp tissue from drying out. It's just a highway to dandruffville, especially if the person using it doesn't shampoo on a regular basis. Petroleum products make a water proof and air proof barrier on the scalp. Even though the scalp will still produce sebum and the scalp will still sweat, it will become infected with dandruff because air can't get to the scalp, causing it to stay glued to the scalp.
4. Scratching and digging at the scalp
Do not scrape, dig or claw at the scalp. Do not use a comb to scratch dry patches from your scalp. It can let bacteria in and not just dandruff bacteria, but even worse bacteria like staff. It also causes more aggravation of dry scalp and spread dandruff.
5. Sharing combs and any objects that sit on the head
The same as head lice, dandruff is contagious. Do not share combs with anyone, or other objects that come in contact with the scalp or hair.

What causes dry scalp?
1. A low productivity of sebum
This could be genetic. If you have psoriasis then you may have low sebum productivity, but patches may turn red and scaly. Dry scalp should be white in color as that is the color of dead skin cells. If you think you may have a genetic deficiency consult a dermatologist, but for dry scalp, in most instances keeping the hair and scalp moist will suffice.
2. Using bad shampoos and conditioners or products that you are allergic to
Most people do not realize that a lot of products used have fillers in them. These fillers range from alcohol to wax. The alcohol in some shampoos and conditioners will dehydrate the hair leaving it feeling dry, brittle and without shine. If you are using these products with dry scalp, then you need to change products, even if the product worked for you once upon a time. Read your labels and learn what works best for you. Also, many people will be allergic to certain products causing irritations like itching, burning and dry scalp. If this is the case, stop using the product. Plain and simple.
3. Not using conditioner
If you do not condition your hair after shampooing, shame on you! Shampoo is drying, even professional ones. It is designed to strip oils from your hair.  You need to condition your hair to put the moisture back into your hair and scalp. It also makes sure the cuticle layers of the hair you opened when you were shampooing get closed. It brings the luster and color back to your hair.

I really hope this gives a better insight on the differences between dry scalp and dandruff. Make sure you know the difference before you run out to the drug store for that bottle of Head and Shoulders. It may just be a wasted trip and a waste of money..... LOVE YOUR HAIR!!

What Is Hair Porosity???

As long as you read this blog, you will continue to read how important it is to get and keep moisture into your hair, but what if your hair doesn't have the ability to retain moisture? Well, let's just take a minute to discuss this. In technical terms, the hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture is called porosity. It's important for you to know your hair's porosity level to determine the best products and maintenance for your hair.

Your level of porosity is in complete relation to the condition of your cuticle layer. Either your cuticle layers  could be very open, allowing for moisture to enter the shaft quickly or the cuticle layers could be sealed shut and very resistant to moisture. 

There are three levels of porosity: High, Low and Normal

 



High Porosity

High porosity is considered overly porous and is the result of over processing, heat damage, chlorine/hard water/mineral saturation, sun damage or the use of other harsh ingredients. Overly porous hair is dry, fragile,brittle and very prone to frizziness. It has an open cuticle that both absorb and release moisture easily. Although overly porous hair absorbs product quickly, it is often dry as the open cuticle does not allow for product retention within the hair shaft. It is best to use a less alkaline solutions with a low pH that help to close the cuticles.

Porosity issues stemming from damage can not be corrected. Only time will heal damaged hair. You can, however, create a "temporary" fix until the damaged part is grown out. Protein treatments fill in any holes within the cortex (inner layer of the hair) and also helps to fill in the gaps exposed by a raised cuticle.

 Note also if you have overly porous hair and you use hair color, while it will process quickly, the color will also fade quickly...it's that whole open cuticle thing, it won't hold on to anything.

  

Low Porosity

Low porosity, being the polar opposite of high is very resistant. It's cuticle is too compact and doesn't permit  moisture to enter or leave the hair shaft. Hair with low porosity is way more difficult to process and has a tendency to repel product rather than absorb it. You would need to use a more alkaline solution to raise the cuticle. Corse hair is more prone to low porosity. Try using lighter hair products with humectants, and utilize heat. It will help lift those cuticles.Wash and condition your hair with warm water, and deep condition under a hooded dryer (or hold a hair dryer over your head).

 

Normal Porosity

 Normal porosity or average the cuticle is still compact and inhibits moisture from leaving or entering the hair shaft, but it also will readily absorb and retain product properly.

There are a couple of ways you can check your hair's porosity:

On dry hair, take a strand of several hairs from four different areas of the head (front hairline, temple, crown and nape). Slide the thumb and index finger of your other hand down each hair strand from end to scalp. If it is smooth, you have normal porosity. If your fingers move very fast up the hair strand and it feels exceptionally slick, dense and hard, you have low porosity. If your fingers "catch" going up the strand, feel like they are ruffling up the hair strand, or if the hair strand breaks, your hair is overly porous.

Also, you can take several strands of your hair and drop them into a bowl of water. Let them sit for several minutes. If the hair is floating in the water, then you have low porosity. If the hair sinks, then you have high porosity.

Continuing to get to know your hair will make it easier to determine just what is best for your regimen and maintenance. LOVE YOUR HAIR!!!