Acid VS Alkaline...the importance of pH balance in the hair

First lets talk about what pH balance is. pH is a medical term that describes the balance of your system and it refers to the condition of metabolic changes. It stands for potential hydrogen. The pH of any solution is the measure of its hydrogen-ion concentration. The higher the pH reading, the more alkaline and oxygen rich the fluid is. The lower the pH reading, the more acidic and oxygen deprived the fluid is. The pH range is from 0 to 14, with 7.0 being neutral. Anything above 7.0 is alkaline, anything below 7.0 is considered acidic. Water is 7.0 on the scale (neutral).
Why is it so important to know how to balance pH? Our hair produces a natural oil called sebum. Sebum maintains the moisture and balance in our hair. The hairs natural pH balance is between 4.5 and 5.5 on the scale. That means the hair is naturally acidic, so the products we use in our hair should also be acidic. To know what products to use in your hair, you have to know the right level of pH for your hair. For example, the pH of hair(4.5 to5.5) is close to 2.9, which is the pH of Apple Cider Vinegar. Rinsing your hair with ACV will help balance the pH of your hair and remove the buildup from products. Dilute it with water to get the right balance (1 part ACV to 2 parts water). Some products such as sulfate shampoo, conditioners, hair colors, permanents and bleaches are strongly alkaline, which can put our tresses in a stressful state as the pH of these products is way off from the pH of hair. Water is the most alkali substance that should be used in the hair. Any other substance higher than 7 should NOT be used on the hair, relaxers included. Products with pH's lower than 4.o and higher than 7.5 can eventually reak havic on the hair.
Your hair consists of three parts. The outermost layer is the cuticle and inside of that is the cortex. The medulla is the central, most internal portion of the hair shaft that contains excess cells and air. When your hair is damaged, the scales on the cuticle stand out and break off. This exposes the cortex which makes your hair feel harder. The cortex is what gives your hair its strength and its elasticity.  By nature, curly hair cuticles tend to remain in an open state, as the spiral pattern of a curl makes it extremely difficult for the cuticles to lie flat. Since these open cuticles are what cause frizzy hair, it is particularly important for curly heads to be aware of the pH levels of the products they use. 
Alkaline products means that the pH level is 7 and above. The cuticle opens when an alkaline substance is added to it. A lot of shampoos are made to be neutral or at times, slightly alkaline. The high pH will allow the shampoo to easily clear off any oils or dirt that have formed on the hair and scalp. Neutral shampoos may be recommended for people who have sensitive scalps. In the same manner, hair conditioner is usually acidic or carries a low pH, because it causes the keratin on the hair strand surface to be flattened out instead of bristly, thus causing hair to be smooth and soft.
Ultimately you want your cuticles to lay down, so staying within the natural balance of the hair would be ideal, which is why you want to gravitate to acidic products. Purchasing pH strips and testing the balance of the products before applying them to your hair is the best way to maintain your pH balance in your hair. Check the bottles on your products, some will tell you if it is pH balanced or not. It may be neccessary to tweak some products to balance them out. For example, you may notice that some shea butters or other butters make your hair look dull. This is because typically, butters have a pH of 6.0, which don't close the cuticles all the way. Using aloe vera juice, which is acidic, with the butter will close the cuticle more, giving it more shine. Another ancient Chinese secret for laying those cuticles down is cool water. When shampooing your hair with warm water, it raises the cuticle. Try rinsing your conditioner with cool water to close the cuticle and seal the product into the hair strands, giving it the moisture it needs.
It is important to understand why some products can strip the hair of its natural moisture and cause the hair to be dry and brittle, and others aid in restoring moisture. Once you start to learn your hair and the proper pH balancing, you will be amazed at how much your hair will thrive and flourish.

To order pH strips visit http://www.luvnaturals.com/

Check out this video from Kim Love

 

Moisture! Moisture! Moisture!

I want to talk about the IMPORTANCE of keeping natural hair moisturized. As a cosmetology student, I can't stress enough to my clients to keep moisture in their hair. With the summer months fast approaching, the heat can play a large roll as a damaging agent for your hair.
Now, when I say the hair needs moisture, I don't mean to slather on piles of hair grease. I am not a big fan of "hair oil" as we all understand it. For me, it's only good for clogging the pores and attracting all the dirt and lint in your path.  The scalp produces it's own oil, but if you feel you need it, then use light oils such as coconut oil, olive oil or almond oil,which dissolve easily into the scalp. Also, Some good examples of  oils that can be used to seal in moisture after a wash are avocado butter, mango butter or Shea butter. Remember that these are oils and will just lock in whatever moisture you already have in your hair. It is advisable to dampen the hair slightly before applying any hair oil to it and use in moderation.
Another excellent means of moisturizing is conditioning the hair. Never shampoo your hair without following with conditioning. Shampooing is the way of pulling oil and other product build up from your hair, while conditioning is how to put moisture back into the hair. I recommend a deep conditioning at least once a month. For my deep conditioner, I use a mixture of Design Essentials Express and Stimulations, put a plastic cap on and sit under a dryer for at least 15min. If you don't want heat in your head, just put the cap on and chill. There are all kinds of deep conditioners out there. Find what works for your hair and make sure it's a moisturizing conditioner.
Now, ya'll hear me out on this next staple in hair moisture....
WATER! Yes, I said water. The best way to keep the hair moisturized between shampoos is water. When looking for moisturizing products for your hair, make sure the first ingredient is good ole H2O.

You may find that the best conditioners are the ones that are marketed to 'wet type' styles (jheri curl or wave nouveau) as they contain mainly water and glycerine. S curl is particularly good.

Moisturizers should then be applied daily or as needed. Only a dime sized amount is required for shoulder length hair. A touch more for longer hair. Always comb the moisturizer through the length of the hair with a wide tooth comb to make sure that every strand gets its share. You can apply a bit more to the ends if desired.

So, while facing all the reasons of what can cause hair damage, don't let dryness be one of them.

LOVE YOUR HAIR!!

Night night, sleep tight...

I want to start off today with a question. How do you prepare your hair at night? Do you wrap it up or do you just go to bed as is and awake with a massive amount of "bed head"?
Well, whether you are natural or not, it is always good to wrap your hair in a silk or satin bonnet or scarf before bed, or if you can't do that get a silk or satin pillowcase.

Tossing and turning on an abrasive cotton pillowcase, pulls the hair strands and causes breakage and tangling. Cotton also absorbs the oils you have in your hair, causing dryness.
Is that all we have to do? I'm glad you asked...The answer is NO.
While it's essential to protect your hair while sleeping, it's also imperative to make sure you do a little maintenance on your hair before calling it a night. For natural or long hair, it's best to put your hair in two or three plaits. It will make for easier combing the next day. As I stated in my previous post, moisturizing is a must, especially your ends. Dry ends lead to breakage, so I recommend a leave-in conditioner on your ends and you can even seal it in with a dab of a light oil, such as jojoba, almond, or shea butter. Now don't get heavy handed while applying or you'll weigh your hair down or make it too greasy.
With all this being said, I hope it motivates you to continuously protect your hair, even while you're sleeping.
LOVE YOUR HAIR!!

Relax, Relate, Release!!!!

I'm sure everyone likes a nice relaxing massage every now and then, whether professional or from a loved one. It not only feels good, but a massage can cure what ails you. They increase circulation in the body, relax and soften injured or overused muscles and releases endorphins (the body's natural pain killer) just to name a few. Did you know that this also holds true for your scalp? Just like the skin, the scalp needs to be pampered and massaged. It should be an important part of your natural hair journey. 
One of the first things I learned in cosmetology school are massage techniques when shampooing a clients hair. You want your client to feel at ease and comfortable during the experience, but they also get benefits in the long run.
When the scalp is tight from stress it hinders hair growth and circulation. Massaging will help relax the scalp and increase flexibility. It helps strengthen the roots of the hair and nourishes the hair shafts, promoting new hair growth and strengthening of the current hair. It helps to spread the natural oils of the hair, increasing hair vibrancy. It also conditions the scalp.The "feel good" portion of the massage helps to release those chemicals in the body that work to lower stress levels. Lower stress levels allow your organs to function more efficiently, boosting your hair follicle's ability to grow. Sounds beneficial huh?!??
Try massaging your scalp at least twice day, first thing in the morning and then right before bed. For about 5 to 10 minutes, maybe even while you are watching TV. You can use a natural oil, which have different properties that are good for your hair, such as Olive Oil, Jojoba oil or Almond oil. Using the pads of your fingers, apply the oil little by little to different parts of your scalp. Then work the oil into your scalp using circular motions. Slow movements are relaxing while vigorous movement helps enhance energy and circulation. You can even warm the oil first by pouring it into a bowl and then placing the bowl into a bowl of hot water.
Healthy hair is the result of a healthy scalp. It also requires an ongoing care routine that starts with nourishment. Whether your hair is thinning, shedding, breaking or none of the above, whatever the case may be, regular massages can help prevent any of these ailments and improve the growth of your hair. Don't wait until you start to experience hair issues, start now so that you can reap the benefits for years to come.

Flinstones kids...10 million strong and growing!!

Do you remember when you were a kid and your mom always laid out your vitamins with your breakfast? I grew up a flinstones kid, I also had long thick hair. Vitamins are an essential part of healthy hair growth.  If you don't take care of the insides, then it's not going to show on the outside, hair included...simple geography. The lack of vitamins can actually slow down your hair growth and can be the cause of thinning. Here are a list of vitamins good for healthy hair:

1.      Vitamin A – This vitamin is an antioxidant that helps produce healthy sebum in the scalp. Food sources: Fish liver oil, meat, milk, cheese, eggs, spinach, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, apricots and peaches.   Daily dosage should be 5,000 IU. More than 25,000 IU is toxic and can cause hair loss and other serious health problems.

2.      Vitamin C – It is an antioxidant that helps maintain skin & hair health. It aids in improving scalp circulation. It is important to maintain capillaries that carry blood to the follicles. Food sources: Citrus fruits, strawberries, kiwi, cantaloupe, pineapple, tomatoes, green peppers, potatoes and dark green vegetables. Daily Dose: 60 mg.

3.      Vitamin E – This vitamin is an antioxidant that enhances scalp circulation. Since hair health is tied to the immune health, vitamin E is believed to stimulate hair growth by enhancing the immune function. Food sources: Cold-pressed vegetable oils, wheat germ oil, soybeans, raw seeds and nuts, dried beans, and leafy green vegetables. Daily dose: Up to 400 IU. Intake of this vitamin can raise blood pressure and reduce blood clotting.  Those under high blood pressure medication would need clearance from their doctors.

4.      Biotin – This vitamin produces keratin and works as an anti aging agent that prevents hair loss and hair graying.  Food sources: Brewer's yeast, whole grains, egg yolks, liver, rice, green peas, lentils, oats, soybeans, sunflower seeds,walnuts and milk. Daily dose: 150-300 mcg.

5.      Inositol – This vitamin keeps hair follicles healthy at the cellular level. Food sources: Whole grains, brewer's yeast, liver and citrus fruits. Daily Dose: Up to 600 mg.

6.      Niacin (Vitamin B3) – This vitamin allows scalp blood circulation. Food sources: Brewer's yeast, wheat germ, fish, chicken, turkey and meat. Daily dose: 15 mg.

7.      Pantothenic Acid (Vitamin B5) - This prevents graying and hair loss. Food sources: Whole grain cereals, brewer's yeast, organ meats and egg yolks. Daily dose: 4-7 mg.

8.      Vitamin B6 – It prevents hair loss and helps create melanin that gives hair its color. Food sources: Brewer's yeast, liver, whole grain cereals, vegetables, organ meats and egg yolk. Daily dose: 1.6 mg. High dosage of this vitamin can cause numbness in hands and feet.

9.      Vitamin B12 - It prevents hair loss. Food sources: Chicken, fish, eggs and milk. Daily dose: 2 mg.

Finding a good multivitamin is essential in maintaining healthy hair and over all health. How do I know what good vitamin to take? I'm glad you asked....Here is information I found to be helpful.

                 5 TIPS FOR CHOOSING A SUPPLEMENT THAT'S RIGHT FOR YOU!

• Does the supplement provide sufficient quantities of each vitamin? For example - 50mg. to 100mg. of the B vitamins, 500mg. of vitamin C, 1000mg. of calcium. Remember, 100mg. of a B vitamin is needed to provide your body with about 10mg. of actual, useable nutrition. This is usually plenty. Use the 10% rule to know exactly what you're getting. The one or two per day supplements only start with about 3mg. or less of the B vitamins. 10% of this amount is like taking nothing at all.
• Look for the USP (United States Pharmacopoeia) or BP (British Pharmacopoeia) designation on the label. This means that the vitamin isolates are the highest quality you can buy, and are the most easily dissolved in the digestion process. Each vitamin that is USP or BP will have those initials next to that vitamin.
• Look for "chelate" or "chelated" in relation to the minerals. This means the minerals are attached to protein before they are added to the supplement. This increases absorption both in the bloodstream and cells by an amazing 400% to 800%.
• Look for enzymes in the formulation. These are, among other things, essential for attaching protein molecules to the vitamins in digestion. Cooking food destroys these enzymes.
• Look for a supplement that has a "food base". A food base is concentrated plant material to which the vitamins and minerals are added. These will contain the enzymes and nutrients to greatly boost the absorption and utilization of the vitamins and minerals. This makes a GREAT supplement package. But it does make them more bulky. Expect larger tablets, and more quantity needed per day.

So, listen to your body! What's right for others may not be right for you. You definitely should FEEL a measurable difference in your health and energy within a few days with the right supplement. If you don't, try a different vitamin supplement.

10.   Essential fatty acids (flaxseed oil, primrose oil, and salmon oil) - improves hair texture. Prevents dry, brittle hair.

11.  Zinc -  Stimulates hair growth by enhancing immune function. Dosage: 50-100 mg daily.