Friday, August 26, 2011

More Harm Than Good




One of the main things I've learned in cosmetology school is how important it is to have product knowledge to inform clients of how their hair will benefit from using them, but one thing they don't teach us in school are harmful ingredients in hair products that could damage not just your hair, but also be hazardous to your health.
All beauty products are required to have a list of ingredients somewhere on the packaging. It is important to not only read the list, but also understand what you are reading so you will know what to avoid. The Federal Trade Commission orders that ingredients that are present in higher amounts in the product go to the top of the list. I've always been told the most important ingredients of a product are the first five on the list. Sometimes the active ingredients are on a separate list. Also, according the the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) system, ingredients have to be named using their scientific names and for plants, Latin names. Sometimes you'll find the English name in parenthesis, for example, Shea Butter is often listed as Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter).
With all that being said, how do you know what is harmful to the hair??

Here are list of the most harmful ingredients found in hair care products
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate/Sodium Laureth Sulfate:
I have blogged before about the benefits of using sulfate free shampoo, so here is a reiteration of the harmful traits of sulfate. Both of these sulfates are cheap, harsh detergents that are found in the majority of shampoos. They are used to create lather or foam. A super lathering shampoo is not necessary to cleanse the hair and scalp. All that excess lather is just to make you think your shampoo is working properly. These sulfates are also commonly used in car washes and engine degreasers. They are generally derived from petroleum, also a harmful ingredient, and often cause eye irritation, scalp irritation and tangled hair.
Now to flip the script just a second on sulfate free shampoos...If you are using one, that's great, but just be careful!! Sometimes, when a company removes the sulfate from their product, they add salt (sodium chloride). Salt is just as bad, if not worse for your hair. Salt is abrasive or rough. If you shampoo your hair with a salt containing product, you're actually creating friction on your hair (think of an exfoliating scrub in your hair...no good!) Not to mention that it's strips the hair of moisture.

Parabens (methyl, propyl, butyl, and ethyl):
Parabens are added to hair products to act as a perservative, inhibiting microbial growth and extending the shelf life of the product. Unfortunately, parabens are also estrogenic and disruptive of normal hormone function. Exposure to these parabens has been linked to breast cancer. They've also been known to cause allergic and skin reactions.

Diethanolamine (DEA) and Triethanolamine (TEA):
These ingredients are synthetic emulsifiers and/or foaming agents. They are highly acidic and can cause allergic reactions, eye irritation, and dryness of the hair and skin. DEA and TEA are ammonia compounds, which are potent carcinogens or cancer causing. DEA can also strip away vital amino acids from the hair and the skin, like keratin. This will leave the hair feeling dry and unmanageable.

Formaldehyde:
This ingredients has become a hot topic since the emurge of the hair treatment the Brazilian Blowout. Which turns frizzy unmanageable locs into luxurious bone straight hair, but tests have determined that the product contains unsafe levels of formaldehyde or embalming fluid-a known carcinogen. Adverse reactions to formaldehyde can include allergies and affecting the nervous system.

Mineral Oil and Petroleum:
For years black women have caked "hair grease" onto their hair and scalp in hopes of achieving hair growth of some kind. I can remember my mother slathering Blue Magic onto my head every other day to help with "moisturizing" my hair and scalp. I don't mean to burst your bubble if this is still a practice you use today, but you are doing your hair and scalp no good with these products. These ingredients give the hair an artificial shine and are cheap to make and sell. Mineral oil and petroleum clog the pores on the scalp making hair growth null and void. They also coat the hair strand making it impossible for moisture to get in, which makes hair much more susceptible to damage and breakage in the long run.

Now, I know you may say, "But Tasha, trying to avoid these products can be expensive!" And you are right! Think about this though...if you ask someone who has had or is battling cancer if they would pay just a little bit more  in order to avoid the ratchet disease, what do you think they would say? I'm thinking the answer would be YES! To step down from health concerns, just think about how the hair can thrive from not subjecting it to such cruel and unusual punishment.

So, it is up to you to READ THE LABELS of your hair care products and gain knowledge of the ingredients, with these harmful products lurking around every corner being advertised as "helpful" or "good" for our hair, ready to strike at any moment.

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